Greenfeast Page 12
CRANBERRY, MINCEMEAT, MERINGUE
Crisp meringue. Whipped cream. Sweet mincemeat. Sour cranberries.
Serves 2
cranberries, fresh 125g
cranberry jelly 150g
double cream 250ml
meringues 80g
mincemeat 200g
Marsala 40ml
Put the cranberries in a saucepan with the cranberry jelly and leave over a moderate heat for five to seven minutes till the berries burst.
Pour the cream into a chilled bowl and whisk till thick. The cream should be just stiff enough to sit in soft folds. Crumble the meringues into the cream.
Warm the mincemeat and Marsala together in a small pan until they are hot and bubbling, then remove from the heat.
Divide the meringue and cream between two bowls, then spoon over the hot mincemeat followed by the hot cranberry sauce.
• You could successfully add slices of blood orange to this, too.
PAPAYA, PASSION FRUIT, MINT
Tart, bright flavours for a grey day.
Serves 4
passion fruit 6
orange 1, small
cardamom pods 4
persimmon 1
papayas 2
mint leaves 6
Slice the passion fruit in half, then squeeze their juice and seedy flesh into a small sieve over a bowl. Press the juice and pulp through the sieve with the back of a teaspoon, then discard the seeds. Cut the orange in half and squeeze its juice into the bowl of passion fruit juice.
Crack open the cardamom pods with a heavy weight, such as a mortar or rolling pin, then drop them, whole, into the juice. Cover and place in the fridge.
Slice the persimmon thinly, then add to the passion fruit juice. Slice the papayas in half, scrape out the seeds with a teaspoon and discard them, then remove the yellow skin from each papaya half using a vegetable peeler. Slice the papaya into thick pieces, about the width of a pencil. Mix the papaya pieces with the persimmon and passion fruit juice, tossing the fruits tenderly together.
Cover and leave for a couple of hours, or overnight, in the fridge. Add the mint leaves and remove the cardamom pods – they have done their work – then divide the fruit between four small bowls.
PEARS, RED WINE, PECORINO
Fruity, long-matured cheese, spiced fruits.
Serves 4
pears 4
star anise 2
cardamom pods 10
a vanilla pod
cloves 4
a cinnamon stick
a bottle of light, fruity red wine
aged Pecorino 350g
Peel the pears and tuck them snugly into a stainless-steel saucepan. Add the star anise, cardamom pods – lightly cracked open – the vanilla pod (split in half lengthways) and the cloves. Break the cinnamon stick in half, add to the pan then pour in the red wine.
Bring the wine almost to the boil, lower the heat to a simmer, then leave to cook until the pears are tender. Expect this to take anything from twenty minutes to fifty, depending on the ripeness of your pears.
Slice the cheese, drain the pears, discarding the spices, and put them both on a serving plate.
• You can use the spiced red wine. Once you have removed the pears, turn the heat up, add 100g of caster sugar and let the wine bubble to a deep, garnet-red syrup. Keep your eye on it, but it will probably take a full ten minutes. When all is deep red and glossy, pour into a small jug and leave to cool. Pour over vanilla ice cream.
PUDDING RICE, ROSEWATER, APRICOTS
Creamy rice. A hint of rosewater.
Serves 4
pudding rice 150g
double cream 250ml
full-fat milk 250ml
golden caster sugar 2 tablespoons
a vanilla pod
rosewater 2 teaspoons
orange blossom water 2 teaspoons
pistachios, roughly chopped 50g
rose petals, fresh or dried 2 tablespoons
For the apricots:
dried apricots 16
half a cinnamon stick
a lemon
Put the rice in a medium, heavy-based pan, then add the cream, milk, sugar and vanilla pod. Bring to the boil over a medium heat, then turn down the heat until the milk is bubbling gently. Allow to simmer for twenty-five minutes or until tender, giving it the occasional stir.
Put 300ml of water in a medium-sized pan, add the dried apricots, cinnamon stick and the juice and shell of the lemon. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for ten minutes.
When the rice is soft, remove the vanilla pod and stir in the rose- and orange blossom water. Divide the rice pudding between four bowls. Spoon four apricots over each, with a little of the juice from the pan. Scatter over the pistachios and a few rose petals before serving.
SHERRY, BLOOD ORANGES, CREAM
The nutty warmth of sherry. The vibrancy of oranges.
Serves 4
blood orange 1 small
lemon 1 small
oloroso sherry 75ml
caster sugar 75g
double cream 300ml
To finish:
dark chocolate 50g
candied orange zest 75g
blood oranges 2
Finely grate the zest of one blood orange and the lemon into a mixing bowl. Squeeze the fruits’ juice into the bowl, pour in the sherry and stir in the sugar. Mix until the sugar has dissolved, then set aside for a good two hours or even overnight.
Make the chocolate-dipped peel. Melt the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water, removing it from the heat as soon as the chocolate is liquid. Cut the candied peel into short pieces about 1cm thick and the length of a matchstick. Dip each piece of peel into the chocolate, place on a piece of baking parchment and leave in a cool place until the chocolate has set.
Pour the double cream into the fruit juice and sherry, then slowly whip until the syllabub starts to thicken. It is best to whip slowly, watching the consistency of the syllabub constantly. As it starts to thicken, the cream will feel heavy on the whisk and you should stop as soon as the syllabub is thick enough to sit in soft, gentle waves. If you whisk until it will stand in peaks you have gone too far. Keep chilled in the refrigerator.
Remove the peel from the remaining blood oranges with a very sharp knife, taking every shred of white pith with you. Slice the fruit thinly. Spoon the chilled syllabub into bowls, then add the slices of blood orange and the chocolate-dipped candied peel.
RICE, MILK, FIG JAM
The humble sweetness of baked rice. The syrupy luxury of fig preserve.
Serves 4
green cardamom pods 6
milk 1 litre
bay leaves 2
a vanilla pod
butter 30g
pudding rice (short-grain) 80g
caster sugar 3–4 tablespoons
fig jam/preserve 8 tablespoons
Set the oven at 140°C/Gas 1.
Crack the green cardamoms, extract the tiny brown-black seeds, then crush them to a powder. A pestle and mortar will work if you don’t have a spice mill. Pour the milk into a saucepan. Add the ground cardamom, bay leaves, vanilla pod and butter and bring to the boil.
Put the pudding rice and caster sugar in a baking dish, then, as soon as the milk boils (watch carefully), pour the hot milk over the rice and stir till the sugar has dissolved.
Slide the dish into the preheated oven and bake for two hours until the rice is soft and creamy and the skin is pale gold. Serve with spoonfuls of soft fig jam.
• No effort involved here. Just a little patience.
• If fig jam proves tricky to track down, slice six small fresh figs in half and put them in a saucepan with four tablespoons each of granulated or caster sugar and water. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer till the sugar and water have turned to a syrup and the figs are soft and on the point of collapse.
Index
The page numbers in this index relate to the printed version
of this book; they do not match the pages of your eBook. You can use your eBook reader’s search tool to find a specific word or recipe.
A
almonds:
damson, almond, sunflower seeds 262
hazelnuts, blood oranges, ricotta 266–8
ice cream, chocolate, sherry 270
red cabbage, carrots, smoked almonds 140
(see also marzipan)
apples:
apple yoghurt 14–16
apples, blue cheese, walnuts 134
apples, cinnamon, puff pastry 244
apples, ginger cake, custard 246
apples, oats, chocolate 248
apples, pears, rye 250
beetroot, apple, goat’s curd 48
shallots, apples, Parmesan 152
apricots:
chocolate, dried fruit, pistachios 256
pudding rice, rosewater, apricots 278
artichokes, beans, green olives 12
artichokes, Jerusalem (see Jerusalem artichokes)
aubergines:
aubergine, tomato, coconut milk 196
aubergines, ginger, tamarind 14–16
butter beans, peppers, aubergines 74–6
B
bananas, butter, puff pastry 252–4
barley:
pearl barley, kale, goat’s cheese 220
bay leaves:
cauliflower, onions, bay 82
bean sprouts:
eggs, edamame, bean sprouts 26–8
beans:
artichokes, beans, green olives 12
black-eyed beans, rosemary, kale 170
burrata, beans, tomatoes 20
butter beans, peppers, aubergines 74–6
chickpeas, radicchio, butter beans 90
haricot beans, rice, onions 204
noodles, lentils, soured cream 182–4
sweet potato, jalapeños, beans 124
beetroot:
artichokes, winter roots, smoked salt 68–70
beetroot, apple, goat’s curd 48
beetroot, blood orange, watercress 136
beetroot, lentils, garam masala 166
beetroot, sauerkraut, dill 168
Berbere spice:
cabbage, Berbere spice, crumbs 78
biscuits:
chocolate, dulce de leche, cantucci 258
black-eyed beans:
black-eyed beans, rosemary, kale 170
sweet potato, jalapeños, beans 124
blackberries:
apples, blue cheese, walnuts 134
blue cheese:
apples, blue cheese, walnuts 134
Brussels tops, blue cheese 172
mushrooms, blue cheese, toasting muffins 60
bread:
celeriac, horseradish, pumpernickel 174
(see also toast)
breadcrumbs:
apples, oats, chocolate 248
apples, pears, rye 250
Brussels sprouts, smoked mozzarella, dill 72
butternut, breadcrumbs, curry powder 22
cabbage, Berbere spice, crumbs 78
fennel, cream, pine kernels 92
mushrooms, orange, breadcrumbs 138
broccoli:
filo pastry, cheese, greens 146
rice, broccoli, pak choi 228
Brussels sprouts:
Brussels sprouts, brown rice, miso 18
Brussels sprouts, smoked mozzarella, dill 72
potatoes, Brussels sprouts 106
Brussels tops (see sprout tops)
burrata, beans, tomatoes 20
butter beans:
butter beans, peppers, aubergines 74–6
chickpeas, radicchio, butter beans 90
butternut squash:
butternut, breadcrumbs, curry powder 22
butternut, feta, eggs 24
mushrooms, butternut, soured cream 180
pumpkin, couscous, date syrup 118
tahini, sesame, butternut 188–90
C
cabbage:
cabbage, Berbere spice, crumbs 78
(see also red cabbage)
cakes:
apples, ginger cake, custard 246
ginger cake, cardamom, maple syrup 264
candied peel:
chocolate, orange zest, candied peel 260
cannellini beans:
burrata, beans, tomatoes 20
cantucci:
chocolate, dulce de leche, cantucci 258
caramel:
chocolate, dulce de leche, cantucci 258
cardamom pods:
ginger cake, cardamom, maple syrup 264
papaya, passion fruit, mint 274
pears, red wine, Pecorino 276
rice, milk, fig jam 282
sweet potato, coconut milk, cashews 232–4
carrots:
artichokes, winter roots, smoked salt 68–70
black-eyed beans, rosemary, kale 170
a brown vegetable stock 4
butternut, breadcrumbs, curry powder 22
carrots, rice, coriander 198
carrots, spices, paneer 80
Cheddar, cider, mustard 176
lentils, swede, paprika 206–8
parsnips, smoked garlic, feta 104
red cabbage, carrots, smoked almonds 140
cashews:
parsnips, cashews, spices 218
sweet potato, coconut milk, cashews 232–4
cauliflower:
cauliflower, onions, bay 82
orecchiette, cauliflower, cheese 216
cavolo nero:
fregola, greens, Pecorino 200
celeriac:
artichokes, winter roots, smoked salt 68–70
celeriac, horseradish, pumpernickel 174
chanterelles:
tagliatelle, dill, mushrooms 236
chard:
rainbow chard, egg, noodles 40
Cheddar, cider, mustard 176
Cheddar, tarragon, eggs 84–6
cheese:
apples, blue cheese, walnuts 134
beetroot, apple, goat’s curd 48
Brussels sprouts, smoked mozzarella, dill 72
Brussels tops, blue cheese 172
burrata, beans, tomatoes 20
butternut, feta, eggs 24
carrots, spices, paneer 80
Cheddar, cider, mustard 176
Cheddar, tarragon, eggs 84–6
cheese, thyme, grapes 88
crumpets, cream cheese, spinach 50–2
fennel, peas, halloumi 30
filo pastry, cheese, greens 146
fregola, greens, Pecorino 200
hazelnuts, blood oranges, ricotta 266–8
leeks, Caerphilly, mustard 58
leeks, tomato, Pecorino 150
milk, mushrooms, rice 210
mushrooms, blue cheese, toasting muffins 60
naan, mozzarella, tomatoes 62
onions, Taleggio, cream 100
orecchiette, cauliflower, cheese 216
orzo, smoked mozzarella, thyme 186
parsley, Parmesan, eggs 36
parsnips, shallots, goat’s curd 102
parsnips, smoked garlic, feta 104
pearl barley, kale, goat’s cheese 220
pears, red wine, Pecorino 276
polenta, garlic, mushrooms 222–4
polenta, thyme, Taleggio 226
shallots, apples, Parmesan 152
swede, mushroom, Gruyère, thyme 154–6
sweet potato, jalapeños, beans 124
tagliatelle, dill, mushrooms 236
chestnuts:
tahini, sesame, butternut 188–90
chickpeas:
chickpeas, radicchio, butter beans 90
mushrooms, chickpeas, tahini 98
mushrooms, hummus, herbs 34
noodles, lentils, soured cream 182–4
pumpkin, chickpeas, rosemary 114–16
chillies:
aubergine, tomato, coconut milk 196
eggs, edamame, bean
sprouts 26–8
parsnips, cashews, spices 218
rainbow chard, egg, noodles 40
sweet potato, coconut milk, cashews 232–4
sweet potato, jalapeños, beans 124
tomato, chillies, udon 238
chocolate:
apples, oats, chocolate 248
chocolate, dried fruit, pistachios 256
chocolate, dulce de leche, cantucci 258
chocolate, orange zest, candied peel 260
ice cream, chocolate, sherry 270
cider:
Cheddar, cider, mustard 176
cinnamon:
apples, cinnamon, puff pastry 244
coconut milk:
aubergine, tomato, coconut milk 196
parsnips, cashews, spices 218
sweet potato, coconut milk, cashews 232–4
coriander:
carrots, rice, coriander 198
rainbow chard, egg, noodles 40
couscous:
mograbia, tomatoes, labneh 212
pumpkin, couscous, date syrup 118
cranberries:
apples, pears, rye 250
cranberry, mincemeat, meringue 272
cream:
Brussels sprouts, smoked mozzarella, dill 72
cranberry, mincemeat, meringue 272
custard 246
fennel, cream, pine kernels 92
ginger cake, cardamom, maple syrup 264
hazelnuts, blood oranges, ricotta 266–8
mushrooms, hummus, herbs 34
onions, Taleggio, cream 100
orecchiette, cauliflower, cheese 216
polenta, garlic, mushrooms 222–4
potatoes, sweet potatoes, cream 108
pudding rice, rosewater, apricots 278
pumpkin, mustard, cream 120–2
sherry, blood oranges, cream 280
(see also soured cream)
cream cheese:
crumpets, cream cheese, spinach 50–2
crème fraîche:
polenta, thyme, Taleggio 226
crumbles:
apples, pears, rye 250
damson, almond, sunflower seeds 262
leeks, tomato, Pecorino 150
crumpets:
crumpets, cream cheese, spinach 50–2
leeks, Caerphilly, mustard 58
cucumber:
fennel, cucumber, mint 178